* At the same time, Trinidadian culture
is both more conservative and sexier than U.S. culture. A strong
component of religious conservatism can cause a Trini to look
down on someone for wearing shorts one minute, and the next minute
that same person can perform a dance in the middle of the street
during carnival that would get them arrested in the U.S. Carnival
itself started out as a pre-Lenten release, kind of a last blow
out before the Catholic church made you give up earthly delights
for forty days at Lent. The same person who performed that sexy
dance with you wearing next to nothing on Carnival Tuesday can
walk past you in a business suit on Ash Wednesday acting like
they don't know you.
* Americans have fantasies about the Caribbean
in which grinning "natives" fall over themselves to
bring you rum punches while you swing in a hammock between two
palm trees on the beach . . . forget it! Unlike the residents
of some other islands, a Trini not only will refuse to kiss your
Yankee butt, but will delight in deflating a pompous tourist with
an acid comment or satirical song.
* Proper clothing for Trinidad may be a
little different than you expect, shorts and swim wear worn in
public (except at the beach or during Carnival) can get you branded
as a slut, or worse, as a tourist (outsider). If you just have
to wear shorts, leave the hot pants and Daisy Dukes at home; even
long Bermuda shorts could cause embarrassment to your host or
hostess.
* One of the most fascinating aspects of
Trini culture is the verbal interaction Trinis have with other
people. These can be far different from "normal" U.S.
conversations. Personal statements about other people that would
be considered insults in other countries become casual conversation
in Trinidad. (Imagine a country where someone pumped truth serum
into the water supply all day, every day and you're beginning
to get the picture.) Mauvaise Langue, or bad talking people, has
been raised to a high art here. If you are the butt of the joke,
don't get mad . . . smile and go with the flow until the subject
changes.
* Trini's give each other nicknames based
on their physical characteristics that would be unusual in the
U.S., but may be the name everyone knows them by and that the
person always answers to. "Enid Sorefoot", "Bread
Nose", "Hammer Head", "Toes Up", "Iron
Tun Tun" (vagina), "Flabby Scrotch" (crotch) and
"Small Man" (a short person) are all names that have
been given to real people, as are "Red Harry" and "Black
Harry", two friends with the same first name who were distinguished
by their skin colors. Trini funeral notices often carry the person's
"Trini Name" so that friends will know who died.
* Trini's sometimes have quicker tempers
than you may be used to, and violence can flare up over things
you may not expect. Pay attention to the mood of those around
you, especially in response to things you do and say. Avoid any
situation which could escalate into violence. Male East Indians
have a history of violent responses involving cutlasses (machetes)
when they feel a female family member has been insulted or involved
in unapproved sexual liaisons.
* Hugging or kissing people, especially
members of the opposite sex, in greeting or farewell can be considered
inappropriate or offensive. Limit greetings and good-byes to handshakes
and the proper verbal greetings (see below) unless someone gestures
for a hug.
* Being "boldface", meaning pushy
or bold, is part of the national character. Trini lines are five
abreast instead of single file; if you stand up politely in a
ticket or food line you will stand there all day as boldfaced
people form a Trini line in front of and around you. Calmly stand
your ground when confronting boldfaced people who are trying to
take "advantage".
* Music is an integral part of Trini culture,
from Carnival to everyday life. Music is used to send messages
of every kind; just walking down the street will result in people
singing the latest soca tune to let you know you're fat, ugly,
tall, sexy, stupid or whatever the case may be. Take any abuse
in stride, unless you can think of another song to sing back in
rebuttal.
* The national dance in Trinbago during
Carnival is called "winin'", the "wine" is
probably the closest thing to having sex with your clothes on
that you're likely to see. Winin' has recently been co-opted by
music video vixens, so you have probably seen this dance or even
done it without knowing the origin. Men winin' on women (and those
women winin' back) is a major part of carnival; strangers commonly
dance up to each other and begin this intimate dance. Any woman
in a carnival band or fete (party) is likely to be approached
in this way. Don't take offense if you (or a wife or girl friend)
are approached by a really dirty dancer who doesn't ask before
making physical contact. If you are not interested in joining
in (by winin' back), good naturedly move away from the other person,
they will usually move on to find someone more receptive.
* The Limbo was invented in Trinidad in
the 1950's, then relegated to a historical backwater like Yankees
did the hula hoop and the Twist. Other Caribbean islands picked
it up and ran with it; you are far more likely to see the Limbo
at a tourist show in the Bahamas, on a cruise ship or at an office
party in New York than see it performed in Trinidad.
* Speaking to elders in Trinidad is more
formal than in the U.S., persons old enough to be your parent
should be addressed as Mr. or Miss and their last name (Mr. Layne,
Miss Liverpool). Elders who are blood relatives are addressed
by their title and first name (Uncle Sonny). Only friends, siblings
and children are addressed by their first name.
* Trinis are very proud people, who often
have strong views about doing things the Trini way. They are often
wary of outsiders, expecting Yankee tourists to have a snotty
attitude (most Trinis won't hesitate to prescribe a Trini-style
attitude adjustment). Once they get to know you (and like you)
you'll find Trinidadians some of the warmest, funniest people
on earth. Get on their wrong side and they'll make your life a
living hell.
* Tribalism is alive and well in Trinidad;
never make the mistake of calling a Trini a Jamaican, or almost
as bad, confusing them with someone from one of the "small
islands". Afro-Trinidadians (about 40% of the population),
Indo-Trinidadians (East Indians are about 42% of the population)
as well as Douglas [Doo-gla's] (persons of mixed black and East
Indian race), Chinese, Portuguese, Syrians, whites and Panyols
(Spanish/Native American mixed) all hold fiercely to their own
cultural standards and holidays.
* Trinbagonians have their own special brand
of service, reserved for tourists. Forget all the Harry Belafonte
movies and Bahamas commercials; in Trinidad you'll find no "smiling,
happy natives" whose only wish is to serve you. You can find
that kind of thing in tourist hotels on the Bahamas or the Virgin
Islands, but Trinis act more like the residents of another island
you might be familiar with: Manhattan. If you don't know what
you're doing, cab drivers will charge you triple, clerks will
ignore you while you stand in line for hours and stores will charge
you "Yankee dollars" instead of "T.T. dollars".
* Unlike in the U.S., it is rude and often
dangerous to walk right up to someone's home and knock on the
front door. Almost all homes have high fences and gates; when
you go to someone's home you should stand at the gate and call
to the people inside (there is rarely a bell). "Good morning,
Mr. Layne!", or "Good day, Mr. Grant!" (afternoon)
or "Good night, Miss Liverpool!" (night) are the proper
greetings for asking permission to enter people's homes (Miss
is used for all women, even if married. "Good night"
is used as a greeting, unlike the U.S. where it's only used when
leaving).
* If the person doesn't want to be bothered
with you, they'll peek out the window and then ignore you. If
the person doesn't want you in their house but has something to
say, they will speak to you through the gate. If they do want
you inside, they will tie up the four Doberman Pinschers in the
yard and invite you in.
* Trini time is very similar to what used
to be called "C.P. Time" in the U.S., except in Trinidad
it is taken to the level of a fine art. Expect any person, event
or appointment to start hours later than scheduled.
* Asking directions in Trinidad can be a unique experience, everyone there has grown up on the island and knows where everything is; ignorance of local geography marks you as a tourist. Although many people will be helpful, some will tell you your destination is "down de hill and rong de corner by dey so!" I once asked for a street map of Trinidad in the tourist office in the Red House (the Parliament and main government building) and was told that such a thing didn't exist. The clerk then asked "Why do you need a map? It's just a small country!" (Trinidad is about 100 miles across and 1,865 square miles. Trinidad's Embassy and Tourist Board now issue great tourist guidebooks with maps; you can find maps on their websites).
© 2004 Afrique Publications
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