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Before You Leave

* Make your airplane reservation at least one year in advance if you plan to go to carnival in Trinidad. It's not like catching the shuttle to New York; every seat around carnival time is usually sold out eight months in advance. Try Continental Airlines or American; flights pass through Miami, New York or San Juan. Call the airlines directly for the best rates instead of using a travel agent (expect to pay $400 to $800 round trip).

* Good deals can sometimes be found on internet travel sites like Expedia or Travelocity, but check the box saying your travel dates are "flexible", then choose the dates you want to get the best prices. Pay for your ticket as far ahead of time as you can, the price will rise the longer you wait. Prices are lower, and seats are easy to get at non-carnival times.

* It hurts my heart to say this, but you should probably avoid the Trinidad national airline, British West Indian Airways. I once loved to fly "BWEE", with it's Trini food, atmosphere and airline hostesses, but recently there have been too many canceled flights, confiscated airliners, stranded passengers, government bailouts and too much lost luggage to ignore. Trinis call BWIA "Been Waitin' In de Airport","Better Wish It Arrive" and "Baggage Wandering Internationally Again". A few years ago BWEE personnel held up a flight for half an hour in Miami while they tried to move me out of the emergency aisle seat because the size of my ass was a "security risk" (long story, don't ask!). BWIA will go out of business at the end of 2006, to be replaced by the new Caribbean Airlines.

* Make your hotel reservation one year in advance for carnival, the Holiday Inn (right downtown), Trinidad Hilton (fantastic view!), the Crown Plaza and Chaconia Inn are close to town or in Port of Spain and very popular. Marriott is about to open on the Gulf of Paria at Invaders Bay next to Movietown. You will not be able to get a carnival reservation on short notice like you can the rest of the year. Make rental car reservations three months in advance for the same reason. Both may require that you send a deposit.

* If you have waited until the last minute, check with your West Indian friends or in West Indian businesses about leads on charter flights. These flights are booked by groups or promoters who charge about $500 round trip. Departure and return dates will be set in stone and cannot be changed; if you miss your return flight you're out of luck (you have to buy a new ticket home). The promoters often want cash and won't take credit cards, so check them out before paying any money.

* You should apply for a passport at least two months before you leave. A U.S. passport is required to enter or leave Trinidad; it costs $40 and is good for ten years. Obtain a shot record form at the passport office and have a clinic give you all the shots required for the countries you will be traveling to. Have the doctor record all shots on the shot record form and keep it in the passport.

* Seeing Carnival involves quite a bit of exercise. Walking is one of the most common ways of getting around, and during carnival it can be the only way. Playing mas in a costume band or following bands around means several miles of walking in the tropical sun each day. Fetes (parties) follow, which means dancing all night. Snorkeling and swimming can strain muscles not used to these activities. Toning up by walking, swimming or working out before you leave is an excellent idea. Swimming lessons for non swimmers should be considered. You'll have plenty of time to rest up from the vacation when you get back to work.

* If you plan to drive in Trinidad you should reserve a rental car as far in advance as possible. You need a valid licence and a credit card. A car is of little use during carnival, so you may want to pick it up on Ash Wednesday. Try www.econocar.com, www.kalloos.com or www.budgetcarstrinidad.com for a reservation. Remember that driving in Trinidad is an adventure; you'll drive on the left while facing some of the fastest drivers, biggest potholes and narrowest roads you've ever seen.

* Swimmers should get a couple of nice swim suits, and if you plan to go snorkeling think about buying your own equipment. When you go to a resort, take a snorkeling boat trip or go to Buccoo Reef, the resort or tour guide will have masks, snorkels and fins that you can borrow. That means that the mask on your face and the snorkel in your mouth have been on hundreds of faces or in thousands of mouths before yours. Go to a dive shop and have them fit a mask and snorkel properly (mask $30+, snorkel $25+, fins $30+).

* If you are not used to airplane travel (or even if you are) you should pack a good antihistamine like Contac in your carry on bag. International flights fly very high; if you have even a slight cold or ear infection you may experience painful compression and decompression of the inner ear on takeoffs and landings. Since you may take off and land three or four times before you reach your destination, a decongestant will help relieve the symptoms, as will yawning (anytime) or holding your nose and blowing gently (landings only). In extreme cases of ear infection, a flight attendant may microwave a wet tissue in a cup; this eases the pain when held to the ear.

* Prices of food, travel and entertainment inside Trinidad are very reasonable compared to the U.S., so once there you won't need a huge amount of money. I'd recommend bringing a minimum of $100/week for a non-Carnival trip, and $200/week during Carnival time. Fetes run about $50 each, tents $12 each, Carnival costumes $350/person, car rental $350/week and cell phone rentals $25/week. You don't have to travel with a lot of money, just use your ATM card in Trinidad as needed. Remember that there is a departure tax in Piarco Airport, so save $100 TT ($17.00 U.S.) per person to cover it when you leave.

* Have your travel agent get your seat assignment a few weeks before the flight. If you fly BWIA you'll want a window seat on the LEFT side of the plane in front of the wing (approximately between rows 6-20). Don't sleep as the plane nears Trinidad; you'll be treated to a magnificent view of a lit up night time Port of Spain.

* Don't wear or bring camouflage colored or military clothing or hats. Unlike in the Invasion Capitol of the World (U.S.), camouflage clothing is illegal here and will be confiscated in the airport. There are rumors that someone flew in wearing camouflage pants and walked out of the airport in drawers!

* Spend a little time getting acquainted with the culture of your destination. Talk to people, listen to Caribbean music or go to a few Caribbean restaurants to become familiar with things you might see, hear and eat on the trip. There are Caribbean carnival celebrations in most major North American and European cities. The most famous are Labor Day in Brooklyn, Caribana in Toronto and Notting Hill in London, but Boston, Phily, Baltimore, D.C., L.A., Miami and many others have their own mini-carnivals. Check with West Indian friends or businesses for dates.

* If you plan to play mas (dance in a costume band on carnival Monday and Tuesday) you should contact friends in or from Trinidad about reserving space in the band of your choice. Even with four or five thousand band members, bands sell out well before carnival. It may be difficult or impossible to get a costume at the last minute if you wait until you arrive in Trinidad to try to get one. Expect to pay $300 US for an average costume and the right to play in a band. Most carnival bands have websites that allow you to sign up online.

The Central Bank "Twin Towers" on Lara Promenade, Port of Spain

"Pretty Mas" on Carnival Tuesday

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